Sweet Trail through Amish Country

There are many things to see and do in the Amish Heartland. But let's face it, the biggest attraction in the area is its well-deserved reputation for good food. And the best part of any meal in this territory is what comes after: dessert. No one really needs an excuse to sample the legendary delights that come from an Amish oven.

Abe Troyer has been serving the travelers off U.S. Route 250 in Apple Creek for more than 25 years. On a cold, frosty morning the aroma of fresh-baked sweet rolls floats out into the parking lot of Troyer's Home Pantry, beckoning passersby to pause for a cup of coffee and a delectable cinnamon bun. While there, it's easy to succumb to temptation from a display of doughnuts, cookies, bread and angel food cakes in several flavors.

But "the pies are the thing," says Lois Miller, as she boxes up pastries for eager customers. The ovens in the back of the shop are kept going around the clock to satisfy the demand for the 28 varieties listed on the board over the counter.

"Of course, the menu varies a little according to the season," explains Abe Troyer. In spring, rhubarb replaces the pumpkin pies of autumn, and summer means the arrival of fresh strawberry pie.

Apple, raspberry, blueberry and other fruit and cream pies always make the customer's choice an agonizing but delicious decision. The Troyers are in the process of increasing the shop size, adding more seating to accommodate those who want to linger over their dessert.

Miller's Bakery, between Berlin and Charm, is "a bit off the beaten path," admits Barbara Miller, daughter of owners Jonas and Mary Miller. Located around a curve, over a hill, and down in the hollow of Township Road 356, just off State Route 557, the bakery is well worth seeking out.

A pint-sized shopper, accompanying his mother on her weekly "bakery run," gazes in wonder at fat cookies stuffed with raisins and nuts, each one the size of his shining face. Loaves of fresh bread-white, whole wheat, oatmeal, cinnamon, raisin, and vegetable-filled garden bread-line the shelves. A fresh pot of coffee is kept filled and ready on a rustic pine table, welcoming visitors to sample the "fry pies" - fruit-filled turnovers individually wrapped for a hand-held snack.

Jonas and Mary have owned the shop, located in their back yard, for ten years, taking over a tradition that was handed down in the family from a grandmother who first made noodles and cakes for a local cheese factory. But the Millers have earned their own reputation, and are particularly sought out for their cheese tarts. Topped with lemon, blueberry, cherry and raspberry filling, the cream cheese pastries are "what we are famous for," says Barbara.

Miller's Bakery also carries hand-dipped chocolates and bulk foods. The home baker can try her hand at reproducing the Miller's cookies with canning jars filled with the necessary ingredients for a batch of chocolate-chip or oatmeal cookies.

If chocolate is necessary to a happy life, then a visit to Coblentz Chocolate in Berlin is pure bliss. Jason and Mary Coblentz began making candy in 1987, simply to fill a niche in brother Mark Coblentz's distributing business.

"We never dreamed we would be so busy," Mary says, laughing.

When word of their premium chocolate spread, the demand became so great that they had to move the operation out of their kitchen. The couple purchased a Victorian house on State Route 515 just off State Route 39 and renovated it into a charming shop.

"Our homemade caramels are very popular," says Mary, "as well as the cherry cordials, and chocolate-covered almond butter and chocolate peanut butter products."

Premium-quality chocolate is sold by the pound or by the piece, with many shaped and decorated items for holidays or special occasions.

The fame of Coblentz Chocolates has traveled beyond Berlin. "We ship chocolate all over the United States, especially at Christmas," Mary says. Customers include a woman in Arizona who has a supply shipped to her every few weeks.

Children take special delight in a section of the store devoted to gummi bears, jellybeans, licorice whips, suckers, and other popular candies.

"Sometimes we have a hard time keeping these shelves stocked," admits Mary, as she fills a jar with peppermint sticks.

Perhaps a shopper from Akron summed it up best as she enjoyed coffee and a cookie at Miller's Bakery. "This place is hard to find," she said with a satisfied sigh, "but once you find it, you keep coming back."

Anyone who has made the sweet trip to the Amish Heartland will agree.

Grace Miller is a Chester Township-based freelance writer. (April 2000 Edition)